• A Bill for the suppression of the practice was introduced into the British House of Commons in 1802, but was defeated by 13 votes, and it was not till the year 1835 that it was finally put down by Act of Parliament, called the Cruelty to Animals Act 1835
  • The Bulldog shoulders should be muscular, very heavy, widespread and slant outward, giving stability and great power. The elbows should be low and stand well out and loose from the body. The forelegs should be short, very stout, straight and muscular
  • Bulldogs and Terriers were developed in the British Isles. Both breeds became increasingly popular around the start of the 16th century when hunting was a major form of entertainment.
  • The Bullmastiff typically has a powerful build, symmetrical, showing great strength, sound and active. A well socialised animal will be high spirited, alert and faithful.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Lhasa Apso and Lhasa Apso Puppies Tips Traning


If you have a Lhasa Apso (or any pet, canine or feline) suddenly “lose” its house training when it has been reliable for a long time, please have it thoroughly evaluated by your vet. It may have an underlying medical condition causing it to lose its training, i.e., bladder/kidney stones, urinary tract infection, diabetes, Cushing’s or Addison’s disease, cognitive difficulties, epileptic seizures, liver disease or kidney failure. Neutered males or spayed females may also develop incontinence, which can easily be controlled with medication. Any deviation from established habits is good reason for going to the vet … and not just assuming your Lhasa Apso is being “stubborn” or “vengeful” or “getting old.”


First and foremost, you have a puppy, a baby (an infant, if you will) living with you now. It has a very small bladder and no control over its bladder or bowels. As the pup matures, it will gain more control over these bodily functions. Also, please bear in mind it is not uncommon for an older Lhasa Apso to have some training issues until it learns:
 
(1) what is and what isn’t appropriate
(2) what the normal household routine is, and 
(3) where its place is in the pack order. 

Until such time, I suggest utilizing the crate/tether/gate method as a training tool for all ages. If your Apso isn’t in its crate, it is tethered to you by means of a 4-6 foot leash (called “tether training”). If it’s not crated or tethered, it is gated (or penned) in a small area with its toys, food and bedding for short supervised periods of time. With Lhasa Apsos older than 8 months, I suggest using a crate/tether at all times. By keeping your Apso in close proximity, you will learn its “I gotta go potty” body language and can move to get it outside. Lhasa Apsos generally will not soil a crate unless:
 

(1) the crate is too large, 
(2) if they are left for unreasonable periods of time, or 
(3) have a gastrointestinal “bug.”


Lhasa Apso Puppiesshould be taken out every 30-45 minutes to the same area; dogs over a year can go out every 1-2 hours. Pick a cue word or phrase and use it every time, i.e., “Get with it! “Hurry up!” etc., etc. For every appropriate potty behavior, lavish praise and a special treat are in order. You want to make a big production of it so he/she knows you are extremely pleased with its behavior. I suggest a special, irresistible treat reserved just for potty training along a happy, high-pitched voice just oozing praises ... and never mind what the neighbors think. Lhasa Apso Puppies should also be taken out: 

(1) first thing out of the crate, 
(2) right after every meal, 
(3) in the middle of a long play session, and 
(4) just before bedtime [in addition to the every 30-45 minutes ... oh yes, Lhasa Apso puppies are lots of work!!]. As the pup matures, you can extend the time between potty breaks.

Please bear in mind that when you get your new pup outside, it is going to want to jump, play, explore, run, and mouth everything it can find (an older, new dog will want to sniff and check everything out) ... anything but go potty. In other words, you’ll have to spend some time with it for every potty run to begin with. You want to give it plenty of time to go (but don’t play with him/her) and then be on hand when it does so you can treat/praise lavishly. If, after a reasonable amount of time, your Lhasa Apso still hasn’t gone potty, put him/her in its crate. Wait 10-15 minutes and take outside again. You may have to do this several times before getting the desired results ... elimination outside! I guarantee the minute you decide your Lhasa Apso doesn’t have to go and is allowed access to the carpet, it will unload the nanosecond your back is turned or it gets out of your line-of-sight behind the leg of the coffee table.


If your Lhasa Apso has an accident, do not scold unless you catch it in the act!! Clean up the accident quickly, quietly and out of his/her sight, if at all possible. Apsos do not take kindly to physical punishment or yelling. A simple “bad boy/girl” in a low voice accompanied by a frown is sufficient ... and only if you catch your Apso in the act. Immediately take it outside ... if it manages to eliminate outside ~ even a drop ~ after having an accident inside, you want to praise heartily and treat immediately. A rolled-up newspaper should only be used to hit yourself in the head because you were not watching your Lhasa Apso close enough. Scolding a Apso after the fact only teaches it is “bad to go potty” at any time ... then you’ll have a Lhasa Apso sneaking off and eliminating somewhere else in the house where you can’t see it (another good reason for tethering training). BOTTOM LINE: if your Lhasa Apso is having accidents in the house, it’s your fault for not watching him/her close enough and anticipating its elimination needs.


Buy an enzymatic cleaner and use it correctly. Both canines and felines are drawn back to the same elimination area by smell (and they will return to the same area again and again, if allowed). These cleaners have enzymes in them that “eat” stains and odors. Nature’s Miracle and Simple Solution are two of the most popular and can be purchased at Petsmart, Petco, or the local pet supply place. Don’t bother with the quart ... the gallon size is much more economical and I guarantee you will be using it. Works on urine, feces, vomit and blood. I'm finding that some folks buy Nature's Miracle (wonderful product) and then use it incorrectly. Once the initial feces/urine is cleaned/wiped up, the cleaner should be used to soak the whole area and then left to dry. No blotting up allowed!! 

The enzymes can't work if they're being drawn back out of the carpet and pad. When steam cleaning carpets, I use the enzymatic cleaner in a 50/50 mixture in my big Hoover steam cleaner (50% water, 50% enzymatic cleaner). Also works great on ceramic kitchen tile and grout as it penetrates the grout and eliminates stains/odors. For tough or old stains, you may have to apply and let dry several times over several days. Can also be used to muck out crates. Like I said ... buy the gallon size (and if the store is across town, buy 2 gallons!).


If you’re lucky enough to be installing new carpet before a new pet arrives, invest in “PetPad” carpet padding. It is special carpet padding that has a waterproof layer bonded directly to the top of the pad. If there are any accidents or spills, it keeps the liquid from soaking completely through the padding to the sub flooring ... which makes it much easier to clean and remove stains/odors from the carpet. The additional cost is nominal and well worth the investment.


The most serious training blunders an owner can make are:

(1) allowing the Lhasa Apso access to other areas of the house before he/she has earned it by displaying appropriate potty habits and
(2) by not monitoring his/her every move. Granted, there will be accidents ... doodoo happens.
 

However, if you are watching your Lhasa Apso carefully (tethering), confining it to a specific area (crate/gate), and giving it ample opportunity to eliminate outside accompanied by lavish praise/treats, it will all come together ... but not overnight and it varies with each Lhasa Apso. Some will “get it” at six months ... others won’t until they are older and possibly close to being 12 months old. Until they do get it, consistency and communicating to them what is expected are priorities. I find with older Apsos it generally takes anywhere from 1-4 months after arriving in the home to be deemed totally reliable (some less, some more ... depends on the dog). And remember, each dog is an individual and what works for one, may not work on another. You have to take into consideration the Apso, background, temperament, and what other problems need to be dealt with first.


I use a 60-day “rule of thumb” when house training. Each day that goes by without an accident is counted, i.e., Day 1, Day 2, etc., etc. An accident bumps us back to “Day 1” again. When a Apso has gone a full consecutive 60 days with no accidents, I deem it as being “reliable.” In the event of a relapse, we revert to the crate/tether/gate method to whatever degree I feel is necessary ... it may be a full tether, or just a baby gate placed across the door to the room that I am in with the Apso, or crating when unsupervised ... or all three methods and counting from Day 1 again.


Finally!!!! ... Your Lhasa Apso has figured out that going potty outdoors has its own rewards and will “Get with it!” on command. How do you go from annoying the neighbors with your incessant chant at all hours to getting your Apso to “tell” you it needs to go?? There are two generallyrecognized methods you can utilize for this. The first is the “bell” method: Hang a small string of bells (saved from Christmas or purchased at a craft store) by the back door at the Lhasa Apso’s level. Each time you take your Apso outside, physically take its nose or paw and “ring” the bells (accompanied by praise, of course). One day, your Lhasa Apso will run to the door and ring the bells!! (And you’d better hope you’re not at the other end of the house where you can’t hear them.) 

Lhasa Apso Only problem with bells:

(1) they can’t be heard all over the house, 
(2) if you’re visiting other homes, you’ll need to bring your bells along, and 
(3) some Apsos don’t like bells and won’t go near them. 

I prefer teaching them to “speak” on command using treats. Once your Apso has mastered “speaking,” start cuing it at the door during a normal potty run ... “Frankie, you need to go outside?? What do you say?? Can you speak?” When he/she “speaks,” the door is opened and access to the yard is allowed. Same cue to open the door to get back inside. “Telling” you they have to go outside (or want back inside) works anywhere, anytime and is easily transferable to any outside door.


Don’t be surprised if you find yourself designated “doorperson” for a Lhasa Apso that enjoys the yard. If you know the pooch in question really doesn’t have to go, i.e., was just outside and just went potty (which means you are still monitoring his/her toilet habits), you can deny access, should you choose. Many smart little Apsos will play the “I go outside, I get a cookie/treat” game if allowed ... and then you end up with a smart, fat little Lhasa Apso. As a side note, some Lhasa Apsos will refuse to “tell” you they have to go outside. You are expected to read their minds and know that “I’m sitting here staring at the door,” means, “I gotta go potty.” These are the dogs that I run out of the house every 1-2 hours or so … just in case.

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